Your Bike in the Frame

Mike Bodnar provides some hints and tips for taking better pics of your motorcycle…

 

Pretty much perfection (Image: Facebook Marketplace)

I have to declare up front that I am not a professional photographer. A keen amateur, yes, and I’ve been taking pictures for over sixty years, a few of them even award-winning, but professional? No.

So, what I’m sharing with you today is purely based on my experience; it is not the Definitive Guide to Taking Perfect Motorcycle Images. That said, I hope you get something from it.

I also need to be upfront and apologise to anyone whose motorcycle photo I've copied from Facebook Marketplace, Trade Me, or other sales sites. I use them here only to illustrate, not to offend.

An article like this could run into tens of pages, if not hundreds - it could easily be book-length - so I’m going to keep it simple by splitting the subject into just four key segments: Composition, Background, Lighting - and, for the enthusiasts - a little bit about Editing.

Composition

This is quite simply about how you want your bike to look. Motorcycles, by their shape, beg to be shot in landscape rather than portrait mode. So, if you’re using your phone and want to take an image of your bike side-on, hold the phone sideways, not straight up and down. Unless – and there is an exception – you want to capture your bike in a three-quarter profile shot. 

Image from Trade Me. Too much grass
in the foreground, too much foliage behind,
and the succulent plant looks like it's growing
out of the bike...

Try and get all of the motorcycle in the frame. Take note that on many bikes it’s the mirrors that are the highest point of the bike, so try and keep them in shot. Likewise, cutting off the wheels at the bottom will result in a flat-tyre look, so avoid this also.

Consider how much of the frame the bike takes up. If you’re standing too far back you will almost certainly have space in the foreground, off to each side, and above, so take some time to position the bike without including any wasted space. I have seen so many images of motorcycles where a third, sometimes half of the image is taken up with road surface in the foreground. If that happens, you can always crop it out (see Editing later).

The exception to this is where you want a photo of your bike in a particular landscape, showing, for example, that you’ve been to the coast, or a mountain-top, or somewhere with an alpine view. In that case you’re showing the context of the ride, rather than just the bike, and that’s fine. Add it to your travel blog and watch the likes roll in.

No distractions...

If you’re going to shoot it portrait because you want to capture, say, more of the front of the bike, position yourself in front of it, but still slightly off to one side, so that we can see some detail down the side of the machine. See sample pic (left).

And finally from a composition point of view - and if your knees will take it - get down to the bike’s level rather than taking the photo from your usual eye-level. Looking down on your machine from head-height will make it look smaller, so if you can get down on one knee, or even pull up a chair if it’s available, go for it. If you’re really athletic and want a unique view, lie on the ground and take the photo looking up!

(PS: On the other hand, you might want to drag the stepladder out from the garage and stand on that for a higher angle shot. Don't be afraid to experiment!)

Background

Background is too busy. Image from Trade Me

Motorcycles can be visually complex, especially where they don’t have fairings, and most of our bike don’t these days. So it's advisable to avoid ‘busy’ backgrounds, such as picket fences, vegetation, a cluttered garage, or anything that compromises the look of the bike.

If you were engaging a professional photographer with a studio, they would likely pose your machine against an infinity backdrop – basically a sheet of material or even paper – that covers the floor and curves up behind the bike, giving a pure and uninterrupted background with no lines or distractions. The bike is the star of the show, and nothing else matters. The infinity background ensures your eye won't be carried off somewhere else.

Studio shoot: out of reach for most of us.
Image: Neve Studios

Most of us can’t afford a professional studio, so we need to find backgrounds that are at least plain. 

You could always simply hang up a bed sheet behind the bike - perhaps on the good old Kiwi washing line, or pinned to the carport roof beam. 

A rendered concrete wall is another option, as long as it’s painted in a neutral colour. If your bike is blue and the wall is orange, it’s probably not going to work.

Cheaper option: find a neutral background.
(Image: Trade Me)

You can - if you want to be more of a pro photographer and if space allows - position your bike a long way from a busy background so that when you take the photo the bike is in focus and the background slightly blurred. If you’re using a proper camera rather than a phone, and you have a zoom lens, try positioning the bike away from the background, and then position yourself further away from the bike. Zoom in and take the shot. That way you stand a good chance of the background being even more out of focus, and even if it’s a slightly busy one it won’t matter as much. Pro photographers call this sort of out-of-focus background 'bokeh.'

And lastly, your concrete driveway might be exactly the background you're looking for - but you'll need to get the stepladder out and shoot from a high angle.

Lighting

It may come as a surprise – when, as fair-weather motorcyclists, we usually choose sunny days to go for a ride – that cloudy, ‘flat-light’ days make for better motorcycle images. This is because there are no harsh shadows, no areas of contrasting bright and dark, and the details of the bike can be seen more clearly.

Harsh light, along with bike too tight in the frame.
Michael could try harder.

So while you might be tempted to take the ultimate image of your pride and joy when the sun’s shining, think twice.

A pro photographer would, in such circumstances, perhaps shoot the shaded side of the bike, but use a light reflector – a circular sheet of white (and on the reverse side, foil) material which can ‘bounce’ sunlight onto the bike to help even-out the lighting. It doesn’t matter if you don’t have one – you can use anything large and white, like a sheet, or a big piece of white card. As long as it bounces the sunlight it should work.

Multiple things wrong here
(apologies to owner!):bottom half of picture
irrelevant (and photographer's shadow
in shot),bike too small in the frame
with cluttered background, and wasted
space showing the driveway and paddock...

And speaking of sunshine, watch for your own shadow in shot! I have seen so many photos taken by owners of their bikes on a gorgeous sunny day, only for their own shadow to drape across the bike like a dark wraith. This is another good reason for getting down on one knee for the shot.

Alternatively, if you can find somewhere shaded, use that, but not – and I can’t emphasise this enough – not where the shade is comprised of multiple tree branches, or a fence of railings. What you need is smooth, even shade, the sort you’d get under a carport with a semi-opaque roof.

The time of day you choose is important also, especially if the sun is actually shining and you want to use it. There’s a time that photographers call ‘the golden hour,’ which is not long after dawn, and, at the other end of the day, just before sunset. At both times the sun is low in the sky, and your bike’s paintwork will glow accordingly. Especially towards sunset, you might need to move the bike around a bit until you get the sunset reflected in the paintwork. It can be physically strenuous, but worth it.

Golden hour

If the sun has just set, but there’s still light in the sky, consider illuminating your bike a bit using a torch, and maybe turning on your bike’s headlamp to add some extra interest. If you want to get really professional, use some lighting behind the bike, or even under it, to help augment the scene. There are plenty of usb-chargeable lights available online for this sort of thing, and they’re not expensive. Experimenting with lighting is both fun and rewarding - try it!

Editing

Finally, what can we do to enhance our images after we’ve shot them? Or make some of our older shots - perhaps of bikes we no longer own - better? The answer is: plenty, but let’s start with the simplest: cropping.

Cropping is just re-framing the image to exclude superfluous space around the bike. Most phone cameras come equipped with cropping capability, so if you have inadvertently included way too much foreground, simply crop it out and save the new image. 

This is the photo from earlier in the article, cropped and with
the background blurred. It literally took about 10 minutes,
and now all our attention is focused on the bike.

You really don’t have to spend any money on fancy editing software like Lightroom or Photoshop – there are many free apps you can download that are easy to use. If you use Google Photos to store your images, for example, simply opening any of the pics will present you with multiple editing options, from changing the brightness, contrast and shadows, to increasing the warmth, making the image ‘pop,’ or adding a vignette round the edges. And of course, you can crop away to your heart’s content.

Of the options in Google Photos for example, I mostly use the cropping, brightness, saturation, warmth, and – frequently – vignette tools. The vignette in particular adds a faint black halo around the edge of the image, which helps emphasise the importance of what is in the centre of the frame – in this case, your motorcycle.

I urge you to play with these tools and see what they can do for your images. You can always undo something if you don’t like it.

As I mentioned at the start, a subject like this could easily run to the length of a book, but even if you consider just the basics of composition, background, and lighting, you can easily turn your snapshots into artworks. And don't forget, with digital photography, take as many images as you like till you get it right - it doesn't cost anything!

 If you want to see some of my images – none of them of motorbikes! – visit my Flickr portfolio here: Mike Bodnar | Flickr